Spencer & Lynn

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Coteaux Champenois

In most instances, you’ll likely plan your dinner first - based on seasonally available produce, what you’re in the mood to eat, your culinary ability (or that of your favorite local takeout spot), and then you’ll begin the quest to find a compatible wine pairing to complement your meal. 

With a whole wide world of thousands of unique grapes, fermented in a kaleidoscope of different styles, this process never gets boring. But then there are other times when, if you’re anything like us, you might plan an entire evening around a special bottle. 

And you know what, your very own bottle of just-landed-state-side Coteaux Champenois can definitely be such an occasion! 

For over a century, the namesake traditional method sparkling wines from the Northern France region of Champagne have enjoyed such a great reputation and high demand.  Without comparable demand, these unicorn still wines (made as red, white, or even rosé) are made in very small quantities and are rarely seen in the United States.  The reds in particular will made from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier, and are typically vinified to be light, fresh, and fun.  Coming from such a cold continental climate, acidity levels are refreshingly high with bright red fruit flavors like cherry and pomegranate.

In an incredible tour of the region of Champagne in 2019 (shoutout to our favorite Champagne importers, Transatlantic Bubbles!), we saw firsthand that pretty much every winemaker was super stoked to coyly reveal their secret plans for their Coteaux.  The few who had some already (from recent past vintages) poured proudly, although ultimately very little fuss was ever made over these still wines. 

Now granted, this exchange was usually at the end of a proper vin clair and Champagne tasting, but it was clear that no one really dwelled on these wines or got too technical, everyone just gulped and enjoyed, laughed and had fun.  Perhaps these wines aren’t meant to be taken too seriously, but when you find a good one, it’ll deftly and transparently portray its terroir and show all the nuances of vintage, soil composition, winemaker style, etc.

Barbichon’s Coteaux Rouge is 100% Pinot Noir grown organically in the Côte des Bar in the southerly Aube subregion of Champagne, where the clay-rich, fossil-laden Kimmeridgian soils coax out a supple fruitness and structure. We thought to run with this vibrant juicy quality, and drank our bottle with a grilled local pork loin that we served with a pomegranate and berry gastrique.Structurally, the mouthwatering acidity and tart flavors of the wine were perfect for the fatty richness of the pork.Meanwhile, the complementary flavors mirrored and intensified the bright freshness of the early summer gastrique.

This year’s limited stock of rare Coteaux may be just about as fleeting as berry season in New England, but it’s only one of many bottles we have in that shop that are special enough you’ll want to plan an entire night around them.

– Kim