August 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 8

Around Our Table

Albet I Noya Petit Albet Brut Rosé Reserva 2021 (Catalonia, Spain)
Albet I Noya has been producing wine on their family estate since 1903, right in the midst of the phylloxera outbreak in Europe. Never ones to take the easy path, in 1978 they became the first winery in Penedes to farm organically, and five generations on, continue to trailblaze and redefine sustainability in the region. The brut rosé, offering pours a brilliant, pale, pink, and showcases, subtle strawberry fruit, as well as a white balsamic twinge to the pallet. Vibrant, refreshing, playful, and sprightly.
Pairings: raw bar, lobster rolls, eggs benedict

Koehler-Ruprecht Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken 2021 (Pfalz, Germany)
Truly one of the vanguards of classical, cellar-worthy wines from the Pfalz region of Germany, the Koehler-Ruprecht estate has been producing wine since the 1700s. Utilizing no enzymes, no manipulation of any kind, the winemaking here is pristine with minimal intervention whatsoever. The Pinot Blanc is equally powerful, rich, and mineral driven. Vinified bone dry down to 0 g of sugar, it still maintains a creamy, unctuous weight with balanced notes of lemon zest, ripe Bosch pear and crushed gravel dominating the palate. 
Pairings: creamy mild soft cheeses, wedge salad with plenty of bacon

Kuentz-Bas Alsace Blanc 2022 (Alsace, France)
Alsace is a singular place with strong ties to both French and German winemaking traditions. Kuentz-Bas honors the unique typicity of this region with their organic and biodynamically produced Alsatian blanc offering. Showcasing mouthwatering acidity, fleshy white peach, and fresh garden herb, this wine is lively and fresh and its youth, but develops remarkably after a few years of aging.
Pairings: arugula and mustard green salad, slow braised pork shoulder, chicken larb

Les Rocailles Rose de Savoie 2022 (Savoie, France)
Since the 1st century A.D, Savoie has been synonymous with elegant, refined, and nuanced wines, and this rosé from the humble two-man team at Les Rocailles maintains the tradition. Their 50% gamay 50% Pinot Noir rosé shows all the subtlety one would expect from wines from the savoie, while still delivering raspberry leaf, strawberry, and a gentle spicy undertone, with a ripple of acidity to finish.
Pairings: watermelon and shaved ricotta Salata salad, grilled zucchini, blackfish

Domaine de la Pepiere “La Pepie” Côt 2022 (Loire Valley, France)
Arguably one of the preeminent Muscadet producers of the Loire, Domaine de la Pepiere keeps a secret close to their chest: on their 43 ha property, they have 3ha of black grapes, one each of Merlot, Cabernet, franc, and Malbec, which is locally known as Côt. Harvested by hand, gently crushed, with only free run juice, aged in Stainless Steel. This côt is a far cry from Argentinian Malbec, but still drinks with those familiar red raspberry and black pepper nuisance, but with more precision and verve than its South American offspring.
Pairings: stuffed bell peppers, portobello, mushroom burger, more mushrooms

Garon la part Des vivants Côtes du Rhône 2021 (Rhône Valley, France)
Established in 1475, the Garon family continues to carry the torch of elegant terroir driven wines in the heart of Northern Rhône. This cuvee is composed primarily of Syrah, accented with Grenache and Mourvèdre, this wine offers notes of blackberry dusted with dark cocoa powder and dried herbs, with enough acidity to keep this wine simultaneously luscious and light on its feet.
Pairings: Labor Day weekend cookout, lamb chops, evenings calling for a sweatshirt


Master Pack

Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron Aligoté 2020 (Burgundy, France)
This estate is well known for making beautiful wines in an area of Burgundy that just recieves much less attention. This might be in part because the founder also owns and runs the most famous vineyard in France (Domaine Romanee Conti). This much forgotten grape never receives the attention either but if you are going to dive into Aligote, well then this is the one to do it. Aligote is fresh, vibrant with some stone fruit and less ripe melon normally but Villaine's borders on unctuous. Late summer white meant for savoring. Food pairing: pan fried fish, goats cheese, moules frites. 

López de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva Tinto 2010 (Rioja, Spain)
A properly aged but muscular red wine during the middle of August might seem too heavy but have faith. Lopez de Heredia is one of the most classic wineries in Spain, let alone in Rioja. Made from Tempranillo, Garancho, Graciano, and Mazuelo this is aged in barrels (made on estate) for as long as necessary which in this case was 8 years. Silky and elegant with dark cherries and plums, this is a round and lush wine. Meant for a time of day when the sun is just dipping below the horizon, there is something immensely comforting about your first sip. Food pairing: marinated flank or skirt steak with some good bread and better olive oil.