December 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 12

Around Our Table

Domaine Joseph Cattin Crémant d'Alsace Brut Alsace, France
Alsace is truly magical with soft rolling hills of vines as far as the eyes can see. In the heart of the appellation, just a few kilometers from Colmar, is the estate of Joseph Cattin. Founded in 1720, has been family owned and operated for the past 11 generations. The winery now spans over 60 hectares. We have long been fans of Cattin’s wines and finally they are available here in Connecticut. This 100 % Pinot Blanc cuvee sees 15 months of aging on the lees before disgorgement. The palate is fresh and lively with notes of tart Honeycrisp apple, canary melon and toasted almonds. Pair with fresh bread and soft cheese. 

Domaine de Bellegarde Jurançon Sec Énergique Southwest France, France
Gros Manseng is a varietal with strong, bright acid as well as high sugar levels. Typically, this grape is used in sweet wine production, however, here we find ethereal, airy wine from the cellar of Pascal Labasse. Pascal is a third-generation winemaker and works tirelessly to care for his 12 hectares in the hills of Monein,  a village at the base of the Pyrennees. Gros Mansang, when fully ripe, appears golden in color which will transfer to the wine if not pressed in a delicate manner.  This poses a challenge for some winemakers seeking to make a fresh and delicate wine. However, in the hands of Pascal, the wine is delicate with notes of pink blossom, nectarine, and white grapefruit. The strong acid preserves freshness and provides a delicate pop to the finish. This wine is the ideal companion to a snowy afternoon inside by the fire (or just go with a rich seafood stew). 

A.J Adam Spatburgunder Rose 2022 Mosel, Germany 
The Mosel is regarded in the wine community as being one of the greatest wine producing regions in the world. It is also one of the more difficult terrains to cultivate Vitis vinifera because of the steep slope that defines the region. This cuvee is made from Pinot Noir (locally known as spatburgunder)  and is just bursting with strawberry and just the right amount of verve. Located in Dhroner Hofberg, Adam produces wines with verve that display minerality and freshness. This rosé quickly became a staff favorite and soon it will be yours too. Pair with fried chicken or basically anything. 

Olga Raffault Chinon La Fraich 2022 Loire Valley, France
We are truly in awe of this stunning Cabernet Franc coming from Olga Raffault. The nose is bursting with raspberry jam, ripe red plums and tart cherry followed by hints of warm spice and white pepper. The tannins have a chalky grip yet are soft and supple in texture. The soil is composed of clay, limestone, and chalk which is ever present in the texture of the tannins. This is coming from their younger vineyard plot lying on the banks of the river Vienne, a tributary of the Loire River. The fruit is destemmed, not crushed and sees 15-day maceration in stainless steel tanks enhancing its fruity, playful palate. Stay classic with pairing and go with pate. 

Davide Carlone Croatina Colline Novaresi 2019 Piedmont, Italy
This charming juicy red is the perfect wine to carry us through the holidays. Croatina, also known as Bonarda, has silky tannins with flavors of blackberry, ripe fig and dark plums. Located in the upper extension of the Langhe, these vineyards sit at 450 meters elevation atop the remnants of a once active volcano. This vibrant red sees ten days of fermentation in stainless steel. The fruit is complemented by notes of aged leather and dried herbs. Pair with hard cheese and mushrooms. 

Jacouton Syrah "Ardeche" 2020 Rhone Valley, France
Northern Rhone Syrah and has long been herald as the benchmark for high quality Syrah. High in the hills, located on a picturesque plateau overlooking the village of Vion are the vineyards of Jean-Francios Jacouton. Jean is a dedicated farmer; farming only by horse and plow and never uses any chemicals. In the cellar, his winemaking utilizes a unique blend of aging vessels such as oak, amphora and cement. The result: a juicy, vibrant Syrah with an intense core of minerality. Dark red plums are framed by soft, grippy tannins, black pepper and earth. Enjoy with braised beef short ribs.


Master Pack

Champagne Ponson "Maupas 1er Cru" Blanc de Noir 2016 Champagne, France
We would be remiss if we did not include a champagne in December's pack, so of course we included vintage Blanc de Noir! Maxime Ponson took over the helm of the family winery 9 years ago and dramatically changed everything from the ground up. This was one of his first vintage releases and it is pretty sumptuous. Bright red berries and a constant barrage of fine bubbles make this exactly the toast I want for Christmas morning. If you must pair with food, then please head down to Seawells and find some scallops!

La Porte Saint Jean Saumur-Champigny 2020 Loire Valley, France
If we can not hammer it home enough, the Loire Valley is currently producing wines of incredible quality and diversity and shall not be overlooked! But really this small project has descended from wine royalty (Clos Rougeard) and is now producing some of the best Cabernet Franc in the region. These vines are over 40 year old and are producing deeply textured and rich wines. Once this has a moment to open up the tannins melt back into the body and the result is just pretty. Pairing with food is a necessity, but your options are endless. Rabbit is classic, but dry aged steak works quite nicely too.