February 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 2

Around Our Table

La Raia Gavi DOCG 2020 Piedmont, Italy
Biodynamic Gavi is almost an oxymoron. Who could have foreseen beautifully crafted, caringly farmed wines being produced amidst this ocean of cheaply farmed Cortese in Piedmont. La Raia's vineyards, planted at high elevation to calcareous soils, are light, vibant, and electric. Biodynamic viticulture ensures the purity of this stainless steel-aged wine, rested on the lees for 3-4 months to provide its supple texture and character. Enjoy with fish in any iteration, from cooked in a cream sauce to raw crudo with a few drops of olive oil and lemon. 

Fatalone Spinomarino Bianco "Greco" 2020 Puglia, Italy
The heat-soaked south of Italy doesn't immediately seem the best place to produce white wine. Most of us have encountered the insipid, flabby wines that result from grapes being grown in inappropriate places. The Greco grape, however, thrives in the heat as an authochone grape. Aromatically floral, bright, driven and loaded with green apple and pineapple notes, this wine is textural enough to be a natural pairing for aperitif and bold enough to pair with a variety of foods as well. Drink with seafood fritters or crab-cakes, grilled vegetables with plenty of olive oil and salt, or white pizzas.

Weingut Schlossmuhlenhof "Pinke Pinke" Rosé 2021 Rheinhessen, Germany
Honestly, we just like saying "Schlossmullenhof". "Pinke Pinke" is pretty fun too. It also happens to be the color, feel, and personality of this happy trio of St. Laurent, Muller-Thurgau, and Gelber Muskateller, each of which bring a different personality to this vibrant celebration of grapes contained in this bottle. While definitely suited to beating the heat of summer, this precise and linear rose is also a budding promise of spring, and is also a natural pairing to spring  vegetable dishes on the table. Pair with spicy vegetable risotto, vegetable sushi or handrolls.

Souleil Rouge Vin de Bonte 2020 Southern France
This Syrah-dominant blend with a Grenache Noir and Mourvèdre, this silky smooth wine is produced from fruit hailing from organically farmed vineyards across sunny southern France’s saline coastline. The purity of the wine is due to destemmed fruit, macerated, and fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve the natural acidity, freshness, and friendliness of the finished product. Ripe blackberries, blue fruits,and smoky herbs on the nose lead to a palate that bursts with punchy flavors of dark cherry, pomegranate, wild rosemary, orange peel, and a touch of baking spice. Enjoy slightly chilled with rustic dishes like cassoulet, grilled sausages or fish with a spicy red sauce. 

Lamé Delisle Boucard, Bourgueil “Vieilles Vignes” 2018 Loire Valley, France
The real deal in a soulful example of pure feral cabernet franc from the woodsy wild north bank of the Loire; rustic feral and soulful yet this is not to say at all barnyardy sloppy or volatile; quite to the contrary, a very complete wine from start to finish, smacking of the verdant forest:  damp tree bark, kicking back the leaf cover of the forest floor and delving into loamy black earth; herbaceous notes confined to lacy nuance; gorgeous silty chalky tannins lending voluptuous texture to the whole.  Very complete, very satisfying wine.  And perhaps an ideal red should we ever end up seeing any legitimately cold weather or snow fly over the balance of winter.
Pair with roasted meats with red wine sauce or roasted winter vegetable medley. - Michael Kane

Domaine Tatsis Macedonia Xinomavro-Negoska Young Vines 2017 Macedonia, Greece
The Tatsis brothers, Periklis and Stergios, farm biodynamically in the Macedonia region of northern Greece and make wines with minimal processing. This area has been rife with wine production for time immemorial. This bottle, made of a blend of xinomavro and negoska, is a lovely introduction. It’s fragrant with aromas of menthol and licorice and, though made of young vines, is structured enough for lamb chops or roasted meats. - Eric Asimov


Around The Estate

Noah Dellamesola Coste della Sesia Rosso 2020 Piedmont, Italy
Nebbiolo can be a fickle mistress in even the most practiced of hands, but winemaker Andrea Mosca shows a masterful understanding of the nuances of this noble grape, despite only having ten years of growing under his belt on his 3 hectare plot in Brusnengo, a tiny village within Alto Piemonte, IT. The addition of 10% each Vespolina and Croatina make Coste Della Sesia Rosso designed to be enjoyed now, unlike most 100% Nebbiolo, which beg for time to reach their full potential. Humming with vibrant bing cherry, tart cranberry, subtle rose, and spicy clove with a whisper of volcanic smoke, this high-toned stunner is simultaneously supple and approachable. Pairs well with: Braised duck, Prosciutto, Chicken or Game Hen Stew

De Forville Ca del Buc Barbera d’Asti 2019 Piedmont, Italy
If you’re situated squarely within the heart of Barbaresco, why would you grow anything other than nebbiolo? The De Forville family answers that question deftly with their offering of Ca del Buc Bardera d’ Asti. Hailing from the family’s single vineyard plot in Castagnole Lanzo within Asti, this Barbera shows depth and texture unparalleled. Traditionally, Barbras from Asti are leaner and lighter than their counterparts within Alba. De Forville’s Barbera elevates this norm by displaying a bouquet of crisp strawberry, luscious plum, fresh-plucked violets and lavender around a racy core with an underscoring of gaminess. Pairs well with: Mushroom Agnolotti, risotto, burrata cheese

Domaine Maurice Schoech Cote D’ammerschwihr 2020 Alsace, France
Producing wines since 1650, the Schoech family are as deeply entrenched in Alsatian winemaking as the trenches that weave across this idyllic and storied landscape. Growing on 11 hectares, four of which are Grand Cru designated, brothers Jean-Leon and Sebastien carry on the family legacy of crafting wines made to an exacting standard. Their Cote d’Ammerschwihr is an homage to the centuries-long winemaking traditions of the Ammerschwihr. Pinot Blanc with a touch of Muscat, this quaffable wine showcases the terroir with limestone, granite, and slate jumping out of the glass, with sumptuous pear and spritely grapefruit traipsing along the finish. Pairs well with: Raclette, Mussels in white wine, Fleischschnacka (an Alsatian dish that’s similar to a rolled meat lasagne without the tomato sauce)