Around Our Table
Domaine Bordenave "Les Folles Vignes" Jurancon Sec 2020 Jurancon, France
Add Gros and Petit Manseng to the list of grapes you have never before heard of but have now imbibed. These highly aromatic varietals have been made into late harvest sweet wines for centuries, but have only recently gained notoriety as dry wines with fantastic food pairing potential. Domaine Bordenave, family-owned since the late 1600s, was completely made-over for its first modern vintage in 1993. Tropical orange and tangerine notes pervade the nose, accompanied by floral passionfruit and lychee. On the palate, racy citrus notes take the driver's seat, while flint, pithy rind and a subtle perfume round out the crew. Pair with trout amandine, chicken in a lemon cream sauce, or any amount of grilled asparagus with Parmesan.
Chateau La Nerthe "Les Cassagnes" Cotes-du-Rhone Rosé 2021 Rhone Valley, France
From Chateau La Nerthe of Chateauneuf-du-Pape fame issues this bright and lively rose from the south reaches of the Rhone Valley. With a backbone of Grenache, complemented by a smattering of Cinsault and Syrah, the grapes come from the famous rose region of Tavel. While the typical bottle of Tavel would appear a much darker pink, this wine has undergone a very gentle extraction to ensure that it maintains fruit notes that are on the light and crisp side, redolent with grapefruit and tangerines and definitely fresh on the palate. Pair with spicy salmon sushi or tuna tartare or ceviche.
Goisot Bourgogne Cotes d'Auxerre 2021 Burgundy, France
Some of the best values in Burgundy come from the most unlikely places. For Guilhem and Jean-Hughes Goisot, this means farming their native land in St-Bris, a far-flung northern region of Burgundy near the Chablis growing area. While they have the distinction of being the only legal Burgundian Sauvignon Blanc appellation, the Pinot Noirs that issue from the winery are often overlooked. Poised, precise and elegant, the chalky limestone soils seem to speak through the grapes, creating a mineral backbone for the lively cherry fruit present here. Notes of rosemary and sage accentuate the nose and palate, making this a natural companion for food. Pair with herb-roasted fish, chicken, or pork dishes.
Domaine de Terres Promises "A Ma Guise" 2022 Provence, France
While Jean-Christoph Comor's genius may lie mainly in his rose production, it would be rude to deny the hedonistic pleasure that lies in his nouveau wine, this year an impossibly delicious blend of eighteen different native varietals made without an addition of sulfur. Combining red and white varietals with reckless abandon has a great effect here, providing a huge aromatic lift to the wine while accentuating and reinforcing the racy, buoyant red fruits present on the palate of this wildly appealing wine. Pair with good friends, laughs, and some light snacks of any variety.
Luchetti Lacrima di Morro d'Alba 2020 Le Marche, Italy
When Mario Luchetti first started making wine from his substantial holdings of Lacrima in the Marche region of Italy, it was the 1980s, and the "international" varieties were just starting to take over plantings to the south of the Luchetti family property. Thankfully, the acreage planted to this lively indigenous varietal was saved, and we have an ocean of this delightfully purple wine in which to bathe. Abundant with exotic flowers on the nose, this cheerful red wine is laden with strawberry and bright red raspberry notes along with a violet-tinged flavor to match the color. Pair with orange chicken, spicy turkey burgers with feta cheese, or a pickle plate.
Domaine Lafitte-Teston Madiran "L'Esprit" 2019 South West, France
The region of Madiran, nestled in the southwest corner of France, has long been relegated to secondary status among its more famous cousins Bergerac and Cahors. The Tannat grape, native to the region, usually produces smoky and rustic red wines that are perfectly suited to the cassoulet and hearty stews for which the region is famous. The younger generation of winegrowers, well versed in winemaking technique, set out to make their wine lighter and fresher than the previous generations. Smoky cherry with a classic touch of mint is present on the nose, translating to a racier wild cherry on the palate, supplemented by a touch of earthiness that lends gravity to the palate. Pair with polenta with spicy chorizo stew, saucisson and other charcuterie, or even a grilled strip steak.
Around The Estate
Bruno Dangin "Cuvee Blanche" Cremant de Bourgogne NV Burgundy, France
More often than not, winemakers and the law are at odds. This is exactly what happened to the Dangin family when the border of Champagne was redrawn and their hometown of Molsme was suddenly considered part of Burgundy, rather than the more esteemed Champagne. Whatever the final product is called, however, no one can deny the quality. Only cultivating Pinot Noir, Bruno works his vines alone, except for harvest, which is conducted entirely by hand. The fermentation, which conducted in the same style as Champagne, produces a product that is remarkably similar to its famous cousin, full of green apple and mineral overtones, with a slight brioche toastiness. Pair with french fries, potato chips with caviar, or fried chicken dinner.
Perrini Fiano 'Prestige" Puglia IGT 2020 Puglia, Italy
Puglia, at the heel of Italy's boot, usually has a reputation for producing full-bodied, textured red wines that are high in alcohol. Perrini, forever bucking the trend, has crafted this delicious and nuanced white from the Fiano grape, which is also called Minutolo in the region. The grapes are destemmed and fermented using wild yeast at low temperatures to keep the freshness in this softly textured wine. Decidedly full-bodied but still delicate, the soft melon and green floral tones of this wine make it a perfect aperitif or food wine. Perrini, which has dedicated more than a few acres of its 150-acre family farm to growing grapes, although they also farm vegetable crops and raise animals on this certified organic estate. Keep an eye to this region in the future for the next generation of rising star winemakers. Pair with mushroom risotto, fresh mozzerella with pesto, or any whole baked fish with fresh herbs.
Clos de la Roilette "Cuvee Tardive" Fleurie 2021 Burgundy, France
The cru of Beaujolais known as Fleurie generally produces, as the name would suggest, the lightest and most flowery style of Gamay in the region. The Clos de la Roilette, seated on atypical soils for the region, produces a rugged and compelling counterexample to the region's name. The high levels of clay and manganese produce a concentrated and rugged example of Beaujolais. Dark currant fruit, mysterious and earthy, intertwined with wild cherry tones, dominate the nose and carry over to the broad-shouldered palate. This "Cuvee Tardive" bottling is composed exclusively of old vines, 80 years being the age of entry for the blend. After aging for nine months in large wooden foudre, the wine is bottled and ready for many years in the cellar, or consumption with careful aeration beforehand. Pair with cow's milk cheeses, duck confit, or even a steak au poivre.