July 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 7

Around Our Table

Effet Papillon Blanc Cotes Catalanes 2021 Cotes Catalanes, France
From the arid southwest corner of France, in a town famous for its sweet red wines, Marjorie Gallet of the Domaine Roc des Anges crafts this impeccable white wine from grenache blanc and macabeu, two regional grapes that are well suited to deal with the heat of the region. Poor soils, rich in iron, force the vine's taproot to dig deep for nutrients and water while high temperatures shut down excess sugar production in the grape, preserving a fresh acidity. The result? Fresh melon and lemon notes dominate the nose and palate, making the texture seem a logical conclusion of the fruit present in the wine. Pair with fresh lemony crudo or ceviche, pickled mushrooms, or a fresh summer caprese.

Yves Duport Bugey Blanc 2022 Bugey, France
The town of Bugey, nestled in the French foothills of the Alps, is arguably more famous for its Jacquere and Mondeuse than it is for its Chardonnay. This stainless-steel fermented example, with all the zing and brightness the region is known for, is sure to convert even the most adamant hater of Chardonnay. Like most white wine of the region, it is pure and bright, reminiscent of a spring breeze coasting down the mountainside, picking up tons of herbal affect while maintaining the pure essence of the grape-- fresh, soft lemon and ripe, pure orchard fruits. Pair with hard cow's milk cheeses, grilled sausages.

Skaramuča Rukatac 2021 Dalmatia, Croatia
From the Adriatic sea, rife with coastal breezes and beautiful temperatures, this orange wine is made of the native varietal Rukatac. The island of Korčula, close to the Dalmatian coast, provides the ideal situation on which to grow these autochtone varietals. Barely 300m above sea level, the red soils are packed with clay stones over a limestone base. Seven days of skin maceration in stainless steel contribute to the beautiful amber tone and bountiful texture. White tea and mandarin orange peel dominate the nose, while ripe orchard pear and meyer lemon make themselves apparent on the palate. Pair with any seafood, from sea urchin to sashimi, or go wild and have it with some aged cheeses and honey.

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Rosé 2022 Burgundy, France
500 years is a long time for a family to run anything. Successive generations tend to eschew their parent's accomplishments. So when Ghislane Dupueble took up the reins to her family's farm, she truly felt the weight of her responsibility. You may think that at this value, some corners are cut in the production of this quaffable, rosy-hued Gamay, but it's quite the opposite. The vines responsible for this juicy wine are from vines up to seventy years old, only natural yeast is used for fermentation, and no sulfur is used during fermentation. Red fruit, melon, an herbal note and a bit of food-friendly acidity make this a natural pairing for snacks, salmon sashimi, and salads.

Clos des Fous "Pour Ma Geule" 2021 Itata Valley, Chile
Among the winemaking projects that Pedro Parra, famed "Dr. Dirt" of terroir has his hand in is "Clos des Fous," a French-tinged project making elegant and balanced wines in Chile's Itata valley. This blend of Cinsault and Pais comes from multiple plots that are planted to granitic soil in Chile's winegrowing region. The name of this light-bodied, lip-smacking wine refers to a private stock that a winemaker would keep "for my gob," a winking reference to the superior qualities of this wine. Pair with roast chicken, cheese, crackers, charcuterie, cudite, savory crepe.

Domaine Colombiere "Coste Rouge" Fronton 2020 Languedoc, France
Fronton, north of Toulouse in France's southwest corner, is the sort of out-of-the-way spot that doesn't attract much tourism or fanfare. Instead, it is home to long-held traditions in the fields of wine and food, the sort that change little from generation to generation. What has changed at Domaine la Colombiere are the winemaking traditions, however, since Diane and Philippe Dreisen took over the reins in 2005, obtaining organic certification and practicing biodynamics since 2010. The wine, 100% Negrette, is solid and robust, with a subtly spiced nose and soft tannins, dark red fruits supported by tea leaf phenolics on the palate. Enjoy with grilled steaks, roasted vegetables, or summer stews.


Master Pack

Domaine Marie Berenice Bandol Blanc 2021 Provence, France
Bandol is an iconic region of Provence known for ageable Rosé wines and muscular reds. The whites are harder to find and can be made from 8 different varietals. This cuvée is made from Clairette and Ugni Blanc and is the perfect balance of saline driven acid and rich texture with body. These wines are not your normal coastal easy drinking white, they are made for stews like bouillabaisse. If this is your first experience with Bandol Blanc the citrus and weight lend itself to cheese or creamier dishes. 

Domaine Chevrot "Sur le Chêne" Maranges 2019 Burgundy, France
Marange sits in the south of the Cote de Beaune and is one of the newest appellations in Burgundy (1988). Because it is positioned farther south it has the benefit of warmer temperatures (which have only gotten warmer year over year). The resulting wines are lush and fruit forward; reminiscent of the central coast of California. The Chevrot family has been making wine in this area since 1830 and have raised the expectations of the quality level immensely. This cuvée is a perfect balance of lush fruit and sharp acid. Duck pâté and a baguette makes a ton of sense but just grill some burgers outside and you will be quite happy.