March 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 3

Around Our Table

Entre Vinyes Oniric Xa-rello 2021 Penedes, Spain
From organically farmed vineyards planted in 1932, this Xa-rello issues from the coastal Spanish area of Penedes, famous for its Cava production. Although Xa-rello makes up just one third of the grapes allowed in Spain's sparkler, this wine exemplifies why the varietal can rightly stand on its own. Bright, aromatically charming, and bursting with ripe apple and pear notes, this wine sings with the vibrancy and salinity that only seaside vines can produce. Native yeast fermentation at cold temperatures preserve the tenacity of the wine, which is grown in abundant polyculture alongside vegetables, orchards, and beehives. Food Pairing: sushi, crudo, lemon chicken, or just a big salad.

Thibault Boudignon Rosé de Loire 2021 Loire, France
Monsieur Boudignon, a native of Bordeaux, has only been making wine under his own name in the Loire Valley since 2009. In the wide world of wine, this is just a moment in time. Thibault has clearly made the most of it, starting in 2009 with a mere 3.5 hectares of vineyard in Anjou and Savennieres, he has managed to make his name well known in the world of wine since then. Although most of the production is in white wine, the Cabernet Franc and Grolleau rose is made exactly like a white wine, leaving behind only the palest pink color from the skins of the grapes. Electric, driven, mineral and saline, this is a rose to slake thirst and share with friends. Food Pairing: spring vegetables, sheep's milk cheeses, and cured meats.

Domaine Garon Cotes du Rhone "La Part des Vivants" 2021 Rhone Valley, France
The Garon family has been farming the land around the Northern Rhone since the 1400s, but the 1980s are where the current history of the domaine begins with the replanting of the by-then fallow land with cuttings of Syrah, especially in their hometown of Cote Rotie.  Dark fruit, gripping structure and a lingering herbality and black pepper component lead the way to a wild and smoky gaminess, all of which are classic expressions of the more famous (and much more expensive) Cote-Rotie. With a touch of oak to bring complexity, this wine stands the test of time to classic and modern pairings. Food Pairing: Drink with roasted game birds, venison burgers.

Château Redortier Cotes du Rhone "Cote Dentelles" 2019 Rhone Valley, France
In Suzette, a charming village between Mont Ventoux and Dentelles de Montmirail, the Menthon family farms Grenache and Syrah from over 60 acres of vineyard spread over four different areas of the southern Rhone valley. In sharp contrast to northern Cotes du Rhone from Garon, this is a bright, cheery, red-fruit filled wine, with charm and an easygoing structure. The farming here is traditional, although in reality no fertilizers or treatments are used except in dire circumstances, which thanks to the beautiful climate of the Rhone, are hardly ever necessary. Food Pairing: duck l'orange, herb-roasted chicken, or soft cow's milk cheeses.

Clos Fornelli Corse "La Robe d'Ange" 2020 Corsica, France
From meticulously farmed vineyards on the eastern shores of Corsica comes this elegant, supple and easy-drinking red made from the traditional Corsican variety of Sciaccarellu.  Bright red fruits, supple herbal notes, and a lingering but clean finish are the hallmarks of this Clos Fornelli. The pebbly clay soils are deep but poor, ideal for farming unirrigated grapes in an area prone to drought.  Husband and wife team Josée Vanucci and Fabrice Couloumère organically farm these lands, and their care shows. Food Pairing: grilled fish, grilled vegetables, and Mediterranean cheeses.

Argiolas Sardegna "Perdera" 2015 Sardinia, Italy
Pedrera is farmed at an impressive 600 feet above sea level and is made from another rare island varietal, Monica Here we have another easygoing wine that is perfect for the warming Spring weather which we hope is soon forthcoming. Perdera, meaning "place of many stones," is made from a blend of Monica, Carignano, Bovale Sardo and creates soft, easy-drinking wines with ample fruitiness. Soft red cherry tones, some earthy notes, and of course, a subtle stoniness all contribute to the overall pleasant and fresh nature of this companion to outdoor grilling. Food Pairing: tuna or swordfish, with plenty of grill marks, of course!


Around The Estate

Mas Mudigliza Cotes Catalanes Caudalouis 2020 Languedoc-Roussillon, France
While they typically focus on syrah and grenache in their humble farm in St. Paul de Fenouillet in Roussillon, France, the husband and wife team of Muriel Samson and Dmitri Glipa do create one white: Caudalouis, a blend of Grenache Gris and Macabeo. Farmed at high elevation (300m+), with an average vine age of 60 years, manual harvest is a must for Samson and Glipa, and their delicate care continues in the winery, where they gently press and age unfiltered and unfined in amphorae for 12 months before bottling. Vibrant white peach and pear intermingle on the nose and palate, with a taut mineral-driven finish. With less than one hectare total for their white grapes, this wine is limited to no more than 4000 bottles any given year. Food Pairing: Bourride, mackerel, or monkfish.

Le Piane Maggiorina 2021 Piedmont, Italy
One of our perennial favorites, Le Piane is nestled along the foothills of the Alps in the most north-westerly corner of Piedmonte. In this corner of Italy that history almost forgot, Christoph Kunzli and Alexander Tolf quietly make staggering wines that would put most Barolo and Barbaresco producers to shame. While they do of course make a 100% Nebbiolo, their Maggiorino is a true example of field blends from the north of Italy. The name Maggiorina is taken from the ancestral training system these vines see, where four vines are trained around one another and then into four cardinal points to form what looks like a goblet, permanently making these grapes beholden to one another. A blend of Corvina, Croatia, Vespolina, and nine other local varieties, this wine is aged for twelve short months in stainless steel, and is meant to be enjoyed in its youth. Fresh, fruit driven, with a mineral backbone and silky smooth tannins. Food Pairing:  Pizza, obviously! Beef Braciole. 

Muxagat Tinto 2018 Douro, Portugal
This unique organically farmed vineyard is new to us here in Connecticut as of March. All grapes are harvested by hand and the grapes and only indigenous yeasts are utilized. Winemaker Susana Lopes is second generation here on this 70 hectare estate (only a small portion of which is planted to vine). This cuvee is made from 60% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, and 10% Sousão. The wine spends 14 months resting in French Oak, with maybe 20% of that being new. The resulting product is dark, with tense fruit and prominent tannins. Screaming with black fruit, the French oak imparts a good deal of sweetness balancing out the experience. Food Pairing: Wild Boar Stew (short ribs work as well), and classic Lamb dishes.