October 2023

Vol. 3, Ed. 10

Around Our Table

Dampt Frères Crémant de Bourgogne NV Burgundy, France
Lo and behold, from the producers of solid Chablis (and one of the most common last names in Chablis production) comes an atypically rich and textured wine based on Chardonnay that grows on chalky southern slopes, especially in the red-wine producing villages of the region: Irancy, Epineuil, Racineuil. This is technically one of the closest sparkling wine-producing regions to Champagne, so ignore the terrible label and focus on the quality! Pair with friends and snacks, especially soft cheeses and salads.

Domaine Pellé Menetou-Salon Rosé 2022 Loire Valley, France
Third generation owner-grower-farmer-winemaker Paul-Henry Pelle and his mother farm a meager twenty-four hectare of vines in the Morogues village of Menetou-Salon, one chalky stone's throw from Sancerre, where one-sixth of their vines lie. This Pinot Noir rose has all the hallmarks of classic Loire wine: bright, fresh, crisp, distinctly mineral and with a beautiful texture that about a year in the bottle is finally starting to reward. Enjoy with any salmon preparation: cured, smoked, seared, baked, broiled or raw. For vegetarians, the same goes for red and golden beets with soft goat cheeses.

Domaine Talmard Macon-Uchizy Burgundy, France
This father-son team produces one "utterly perfect" wine made from one grape: Chardonnay, in all its pure glory, raised in the commune of Chardonnay in the south of Macon, reputedly the birthplace of the grape itself. And what better way to experience it? This is a wine so vibrant and energetic that it will charm Sauvignon Blanc drinkers who swear off the evils of Chardonnay. It also retains all the ripe orchard fruit that one associates with the grape, providing a satisfying experience for those who participate. Perfect with a variety of dishes, including pasta, chicken or fish in cream sauce and cow's milk cheeses of all hardnesses.

Domaine Saint Amant Cotes du Rhone Blanc Rhone Valley, France
It's difficult to find a good producer of Viognier in the Cotes-du-Rhone, most of the area being too warm to lend itself to this cold-loving varietal. Here, Marsanne and Roussanne reign supreme in white blends However, the Domaine de Saint-Amant is situated in the far north of the region, near the craggy rock formation known as the Dentelles de Montmirail. Here, the winds from the northern part of the valley cool and temper the hot days during the growing season, which allows the Viognier to maintain its crisp and refreshing flavor profile. Pair with lighter fare – salads, fish, pork, and vegetables in lemon wine or yogurt sauces.

Domaine du Mont Verrier Beaujolais-Villages 2020 Beaujolais, France
Located in the heart of Beaujolais in the not-at-all-confusingly-named St Julien, the Mont Verrier crafts responsibly farmed Gamay in a handful of diverse appellations, including some holdings in Morgon - Cote de Puy and Moulin-a-Vent. Their Beaujolais-Villages is made from younger vines scattered around their holdings in the various cru, and the pedigree shows through the age of the young vines. Dark, ripe fruit builds the backbone for a little Burgundian barrel aging here, making this a perfect complement to anything from duck to steak.

Château de Lancyre Pic Saint Loup Rouge "Clos des Combes" 2019 Languedoc, France
In the northwestern corner of the Languedoc region, the rugged and burnt lands of the Roussillon give way to the lush and grassy environment of the Herault mountain ranges. The elevation of this small region is key: cool nights keep the acidity high and the potential alcohol in check. Here, the grape blends are a perfect reflection of the southern Rhone: Grenache reigns supreme, blending with fine-grained Syrah and complex Mourvedre to craft a wine capable of handling anything from snacks to a full-blown grill extravaganza.


Master Pack

Domaine Marc Roy "Les Champs Perdrix" Marsannay 2019 Burgundy, France
Marsannay is located in southern Burgundy and has become known for a richer, more fruit forward style. Marc Roy has holdings on the highest elevation vineyards in the area sitting at 350 meters in altitude. 40+ year old vines are used to create this cuvee that sit mostly on limestone. This wine doesn't see any malolactic fermentation but does rest  in 20% new oak. This creates a rich developed chardonnay that has a bright acid streak, but is not a creamy textural bomb. Classique! Food Pairing - Lobster Risotto, Arancini stuffed with mushrooms. 

Cave Caloz "La Mourziere" Pinot Noir 2018 Valais, Switzerland
Swiss red wine is not the most common find here in the US as the production of it is mostly consumed in Switzerland. The wine regions that produce red wine here though make gorgeous Pinot Noir and Gamay. Cave Caloz was founded in the 60's and has some extremely steep vineyards with stone wall encircled and terraced sections. The wine produced off this south-facing slope is full of strawberry and cherries and a much fuller body than the temperature would suggest. It is not fined or filtered giving you an unadulterated look at what Valais Pinot Noir can be. Food Pairing - Look up Alpine Macaroni or Raclette (all the cheese)