Amari Amore

Everyone remembers their first.

And while some people might not enjoy their first, for me, well, I was fortunate to have a transcendent experience with what would become a bittersweet lifelong love.

After a decadent dining experience, a mammoth meal at my friend’s Nonna’s home, I had my first run-in with amaro. Having sufficiently overindulged, I found myself slipping into gentle listlessness and wishing for some sweet relief from this self-imposed misery. My friend slid a glass of Cynar to me, and as the amber elixir slid past my lips, an instant sense of relief came over me. What was this beautiful nectar? Why did my stomach instantly feel better? And how was this stuff simultaneously so bitter and sumptuous? I had to know more, and thus began my love affair with amaro.

Amaro quite simply means “bitter” in Italian, which, granted, at their core they are medicinal and astringent, however, they are also artfully crafted, nuanced infusions of herbs, botanicals, citrus, spices into a neutral spirit base to create a bevy of unique beverages that are delightful on their own accord or mingled amongst other ingredients to create a greater sum than their parts. While they’ve been used for centuries as medicine for any number of ailments, most notably an upset stomach, they’ve seen a resurgence as a versatile component to many a cocktail. Amari are the cocktail equivalent of salt, bringing depth, texture, and character to even the simplest of trysts, and while amari are ubiquitous to Italy, they can be made anywhere. Case in point: Jagermiester is an amaro (which, side note, if you haven't had a shot of Jager since college, you should try revisit it, you might be pleasantly surprised)

Amari are vastly and wildly different, which means there’s a lot to love about them as you can have a different experience every night and not get bored with them. Want a quick fling with something fruity and fun that won’t leave you too bitter? Aperitif styles like Aperol and Cappelletti will scratch that itch. Looking for a soft, sensual, sumptuous experience that’s syrupy sweet and endearing? Reach for a bottle of Amara Blood Orange Amaro. Rather have your head knocked against the headboards and cry out to the deity of your choice because you can’t decide if it’s painful or pleasurable? Wrap your lips around a bottle of Underberg and appreciate that good things come in small packages. Amari are versatile, playful, and begging to mix it up with whatever’s in your liquor cabinet already.

Each amaro is so wildly different, and the flavour is contingent upon not just the style, but each individual producer. However, here’s a quick little rundown to help you figure out which amaro you might want to swipe your credit card right for:

Apertifs are the amaro equivalent of foreplay. They’re playful, light, and leave your mouth watering wanting more. Traditionally, aperitifs are used at the beginning of a meal to get your digestive juices flowing, so, look to enjoy these to start your evening. While Aperol and Campari are the benchmarks here, Erborista steps up the game with a more rich viscosity and bold, intense flavors that leave the benchmark in the dust. 

Carciofo amaro are the vegan that keeps reminding you they're a vegan for moral reasons not for health (how could we forget??) and you love them either in spite of or because of this. Made with artichokes as the base, they are vegatal, bitter, and subtly sweet. My first love Cynar falls into this category. 

Rabarbaro is the hippie that smells a little like patchouli that you have a magical summer fling with and always think of affectionately. Taking Carciofo one step further and utilizing Chinese rhubarb as the base, these amari have a subtle smokiness and a bright lifted quality that will keep you smiling all night long. Check out Varnelli Amaro L’Erborista to get in with the crunchy granola goodness.

Alpine is captain of the Ski Team. Fit as a fiddle, and always game to head up north for a romantic weekend away mountainside. Think menthol, eucalyptus, pine, maybe a bit of wormwood, but always light on their toes and leave you breathless. Noveis is the perfect way to end your day on the slopes, schnookled up on the bearskin rug in front of the roaring fireplace after a long day of hitting the slopes.

Fernet is the jock that peaked in high school. Bold, strong, powerful, and  intensely polarizing, these brutish amaro are, in a strange twist of fate, best consumed after a big meal to settle your stomach. Astringency reigns supreme with these sorts, and though you might be most familiar with Fernet, there are some gentler versions that allow the subtle botanical notes to shine through. Look for  Faccia Bruto Fernet Pianta if you’re into the rugged handsome type that can look back on nostalgia with fondness instead of bitterness.

Tartufo is the one night stand when you’re vacationing on the Mediterranean. These mysterious, sultry amaro utilize black truffles as their dominant ingredient. Rarely seen outside of Italy, they will woo you with their unique umami richness. If you ever have the chance, pounce.

Vino Amaro is the ending of the romantic comedy when you realize you’re in love with your best friend. In fact, look in your liquor cabinet right now. If you have a vermouth, you have a vino amaro. Yep, vermouth is an amaro, it just utilizes wine as a base instead of a neutral grain spirit. Versatile, friendly, these amari are your best friend and your lover, regardless of the base. Keep it classic with Dolin, or fall head over heels with the elevated richness of Caprano Antica.

So, with so many options, how do you choose which kind of Amaro to settle down with?

Therein lies the trick: you shouldn’t. 

Play the field, enjoy them all, and realize they all serve their own unique purpose, so you shouldnt have to settle for just one Amaro to love for the rest of your life.

– Jules