Blended

How we view our wines has changed dramatically over the past 100 years, probably in more ways than I can expound upon here. One important change is how we view blending of grapes. As Kathryn talks about below, a multitude of regions have blended varietals for centuries. So, the question is then why are we now more focused than ever on single varietal wines? The answer is honestly science and education. As vineyard managers now can identify any vine growing without guesswork (spoiler alert: most vineyards were never fully planted to just one varietal, even though they may have been bottles as such). The general public is also increasingly better educated on what flavors they like and which varietals to associate that with. This has resulted in a very different wine world where many vintners are looking for that perfect blend both in the cellar and in the vineyard. Interesting what just a little science and education can provide.

            — David

 Blends just have more fun. Since when did the world become so seemingly obsessed with single varietal? Even historical wine regions known for their unique blending, like champagne, have seen a shift in focus to single vineyard and single varietal wines. That shift has also created this notion that blends are lesser than but quite in fact the opposite. As stated by Aristotle: the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.  What’s not to say he wasn’t sipping a blended wine when he coined this phrase?

Bordeaux, Champagne, Provence, and the Rhône Valley are all regions known for blending and that’s just dipping our toes in the water. Blending is so much more than just throwing some grapes together and hoping it tastes good. If you ever have the pleasure of joining a winemaker during a blending trial, you’ll realize quickly how tedious, and detail oriented the endeavor is.

While Bordeaux may not have invented blending, they’ve certainly mastered the intricacies of it. Let’s be honest, they set the benchmark for excellent and ageable blends. Climatically, Bordeaux had marked differences between vintages. To achieve a balanced wine, year in and year out, producers blended different varietals. The two most celebrated varietals in the region are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon brings acid, tannin, power, and structure to a wine while Merlot softens the sharp edges, contributing rich ripe fruit and plush, pillowy tannins. A fantastic example of this is the 2020 Les Demoiselle by Chateau Falfas.

 The first time I ever participated in a “blending trail’ was the first winery I ever worked for. I walked into the winemaker’s office and on the counter were ten different rosés, Blends A through J. I was told to pick my favorite. Each blend varied ever so slightly, 3% Merlot here, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon there. As I learned, and tasted more, the differences were extremely subtle. After the sixth wine, I asked: ALL THIS, just for rosé that will be drank by the end of summer? He replied, “It will only be gone if the blend is great.”

Later in my career, I had a mentor describe blending as such: Blending is to think about the wine now and consider what the wine will develop into. You must ask yourself: who will be drinking this wine? Will they be drinking this wine in a year, five years or even ten years from now?

Think of each varietal as an instrument. Imagine a single saxophone, now add in a banjo, then a trumpet, a trombone, a double bass, and a piano.  Before you know it, you have yourself a jazz band that’s rocking and rolling! Sure, was the single saxophonist fantastic? Of course, but the band is a whole other thing entirely.

In my opinion, blending is expression of a winemaker’s style in all the best ways. Winemaker’s work diligently to express and honor their vineyards. If they’ve settled on a particular blend, you can bet it will be a great wine. If you’re still not convinced, a good place to begin is with a producer you already enjoy, such as 2021 Hunky-Dory Sauvignon Blanc. Look to their 2021 Tangle - a blend of 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Chardonnay, 16% Grüner Veltliner and 14% Pinot Gris. Let me be clear, do not be deterred by a particular varietal in a blend, (for all you Chardonnay haters out there). Blends are all about balance. Referring to the band analogy, if one instrument is louder than the others, then the entire sound will be off. Blends are literally all about balance. And if you’re not much of a gambler, don’t worry the Tangle comes in under $20.

Now, if you want to get weird, look no further than Marcel Deiss Complantation. Talk about a wine that lives up to its name. This wine is extraordinarily complex and one of the best blends I’ve had the pleasure of drinking lately. The wine is comprised of 13 different varietals: Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Auxerrois, Muscat Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Muscat à petit grains, Gewürztraminer, Sylvaner, Pinot Beurot, Rose d’Alsace, Traminer and Chasselas Rose. This is what we refer to as a field blend, where everything is harvested and fermented together. Marcel Deiss reinforces his vineyard’s terrior by allowing the native yeast to do the work and only uses stainless steel vats, which ensures pure expression of the fruit. This wine should not be missed as you adventure into the world of blends.

I could drone on about blends for a while, comparable to the number of times I’ve mentioned balance. Make a note, aside from the Bordeaux, the two other wines I mentioned are made in Marlborough, New Zealand and Alsace, France.  Blends are made in every wine region of the world and should be enthusiastically enjoyed. I guarantee you will find at least one blend you will enjoy, and you can hold me to that. But one final point that I can’t stress enough: Champagne is always a good idea, regardless of the blend.

— Kathryn