Chenin Blanc: The Forgotten Middle Child

A quick Google search of middle child syndrome and a few buzz words appear: caught in the middle, peacemakers, people pleasers, attention seekers and my favorite: outright neglected. In a sea of buttery Chardonnay, bold California Cabernet Sauvignon, and quaffable Rosés, what chance does the sibling Chenin Blanc have? Has the wine world seemingly forgotten it even exists? Well, don’t you worry. I’m here to rectify that. 

While this may be surprising to some, Chenin Blanc has been cultivated in France for thousands of years and I strongly believe it deserves a seat at the table with the great Burgundies and mighty Bordeaux’s. 

Chenin Blanc is an extremely versatile grape in the wine cellar. Still or sparkling, bone dry to lusciously sweet, Chenin Blanc can be found in every style and sweetness level. So why does Chenin Blanc’s fate seem to be running parallel to Leonardo DiCaprio’s inability to nail down an Oscar?

As for growing Chenin Blanc successfully, two factors play a critical role. Firstly, this varietal is late ripening and needs a significant amount of hang time on the vine to achieve ample sugar levels. Chenin is naturally very high in acid, similar to Riesling, and needs ripeness to counterbalance the screechingly high acidity. Secondly, Chenin is prone to Nobel Rot (otherwise known as Botrytis) and downy mildew … and powdery mildew … basically all the mildews. For a grower, the sum of those two things equals quite the headache. The longer the fruit hangs on the vine, the more susceptible to rot or damage. Perhaps, this is why we don’t see a lot of Chenin Blanc around the world. 

BUT, THERE IS HOPE! 

Vintners in the Loire Valley have mastered the art of Botrytized wines. Chenin Blancs made on the banks of the Loire River hail some of the most revered, long-lived, lusciously sweet, and sinfully delicious wines that you will taste in your lifetime. This style became increasing popular in the 1990s, when the wines of Sauternes (similarity fashioned Botrytized wines) prices soared to the equivalent of a down payment on a new car. Wine lovers turned to the Loire Valley to deliver. While those wines are made and still rightly as wonderful, Chenin Blanc has so much more to offer.

Francois Pinon pictured here sadly passed away a year ago, and he is greatly missed. His wines will live on, and his son Julien carries on the winemaking tradition.

Let’s start with Sparkling. I remember the first time I ever tasted Taille aux Loups Triple Zéro crafted by Jacky Blot.  It was the type of wine that we, wine nerds, get excited about. The wine was intense with lifted yellow fruits, mineral driven, and acid for days. 

Blot was a forerunner in the Loire Valley and is dedicated to expressing Chenin Blanc in pure varietal form. His vineyards line in Montlouis, a region that has gained some attention in the past 20 years or so, primarily due to the land being relatively affordable in comparison to other wine-producing regions in France. Although organic and sustainable farming has become very chic recently, Blot has been farming organically since the 1980s, long before it became fashionable. It took quite some time for his wines to gain the attention they deserve. The Triple Zéro Crémant de Loire is fermented with native yeasts, sees no malolactic conversion and zero additives. A gleaming pale gold color, this sparkling has a soft mousse with delicate aromas of ripe Bosc pear, sweet pastry dough, and golden raisins. 

Another powerhouse producer is Domain Closel. This domain has a long history in the Loire and is a standout in the wine industry as a fourth-generation, woman-owned and -operated business. Within their ranks is the first woman to become president of an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a governing body that sets the standards and regulations of viticulture in France. Their 2016 Savennieres Les Caillardieres is broad on the palate with intense flavors of crushed slate, candied lemon rind and yellow apple. Currently the estate is run by Evelyne de Pontbriand, and their wines are known for their intensely ripe and concentrated fruit. The domain greatly reduces the volume of fruit harvested. On average the domain harvests 32% less fruit than the maximum yield permitted in the region. 

If you have a bit of a sweet tooth, than Domain Huet Demi Sec Le Mont will hit the spot. Dripping with ripe peaches, baked apples and honeycomb, this luscious wine is balance by the tug of acidity on the finish. When it comes to wines with a touch of sweetness, I reach for salty cheeses and find that, if paired correctly, can change one’s perspective on sweeter wines. My go-to snow day ritual: Demi-sec Chenin and Gorgonzola Dolce. 

While the Loire may be the birthplace of Chenin, South Africa is quite smitten. Chenin Blanc was first brought to the region by Dutch East India Company in the mid-1600s. Today, approximately 20% of South Africa’s total vineyard area is planted with Chenin Blanc, twice the number of plantings in the Loire Valley. 

Stylistically, Chenin Blancs from South Africa are more tropical and richer and, luckily for us, lack the French price tag. Look no further that Gabrielskloof 2019 Chenin Blanc. The vineyards are just a mere 10 miles from the ocean where cool breezes offer a reprieve from the warm temperatures. Established in 2001, this domain is family-owned and -operated. Their Chenin displays aromas of lychee, underripe pineapple, green apple and lime zest framed by zippy acidity.  

Finally, California. Winemakers Eric Railsback and Justin Willett founded Lieu Dit in 2011 with a focus on the indigenous Loire varietals. Their 2018 Chenin Blanc is a blend of stainless-steel tank and neutral French oak fermentation. The wine is fresh with lemon pith, stone and green apple. This wine has beautiful weight on the palate from the time spent in barrel. 

These wines are a brief snapshot into the complex world of Chenin Blanc. With so many options out there, you’d be hard pressed not to fall in love with all that Chenin Blanc has to offer. So, before you reach for another bottle of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, give a thought to Chenin Blanc. As for the future of Chenin Blanc, well Leo finally did win an Oscar after all.

Cin-cin! – Kathryn