What To Drink When You Hit The Slopes
The French Alpine region of Savoie is renowned for its charming ski resorts, cheese-and-meat based cuisine, and, of course, locally produced wine and spirits. For those of us fortunate enough to enjoy winter sports in these grueling months, skiing or snowboarding is a bright spot in an otherwise grey terrain. During the snowy season, many of us turn to Vermont for outdoor recreation, but the food and beverage scene is just a bit lacking. There is inarguably well-made cheddar, boatloads of great regional beer, but I think the food and wine from Savoie are perfect for the hungry person fresh from any slopes— easygoing, calorie-dense, and downright delicious. The wines range from quaffable and fresh to contemplative and mysterious, while the spirits are warming and distinctly Alpine, using hand-gathered ingredients native to the region. However, just because you prefer the chalet to the chairlift does not mean that these wines, spirits, and foods that go with them are not for you. Quite the opposite! The wines are just at home next to a roaring fire and a pot of fondue as they are at a cabin nestled in the top of the slopes.
The wines of Savoie are like a breath of fresh mountain air. There are three white grapes that constitute the majority of production: Jacquere, Altesse, and Roussane. The native Mondeuse grape generally constitutes the base of the reds. While these relatively off-the-radar grapes stay constant in the region, the wines themselves take the name of whatever tiny village they issue from, in the typical French fashion. Jacquere is grown in the villages of Apremont and Abymes, but the name of the grape rarely (if ever) appears on the bottle. The wines are indisputably fresh, herbal, driven by citrus and mineral, with a slightly waxy inflection. We are lucky to have four different bottlings of Jacquere available, each with their own distinct personality. The Jacquere from the village of Abymes, made by Roger Labbe, is textbook. It highlights all the characteristics of the grape at the most affordable price point in the region: zippy lemon and fresh cut tarragon are supported by lithe orchard fruit. On a recent trip to a Northeastern ski mountain, this bottle was employed in the obligatory fondue. Whatever wine escaped the fondue was enjoyed by its side, a perfect palate counterpoint to the garlicky, bubbling cheese, bread, and cornichon after a hard day of shoveling and skiing.
By contrast, the Jacquere grown in the next village takes on a slightly more serious tone, sort of like moving from a green-circle trail to a more difficult blue-square. Apremont, one of the most notable Jacquere-producing villages, has definitely made the grape its calling card. We are lucky to have two wonderful producers with three white wines hailing just from this tiny village nestled in the foothills of the massive slopes. From the Domaine Jean Masson, we have the entry-level Apremont and their “Centenaire” cuvee. This domaine produces an impressive range of wines, all grown with impeccable care at the base of Mont Granier, which features prominently on the label of the basic Apremont. The mountain, which experienced deadly landslides in the years 1248 and 2016, is a testament to the stark realities of Alpine life— not everything is just cheese and potatoes. The wine itself is slightly more mineral than the Abymes, but is just as refreshing and easygoing. Wink Lorch, who literally wrote the book on Savoie wines, names it her “go-to ski wine”. The “Centenaire” cuvée uses especially old vines as the base of its blend, and the difference is readily apparent. The wine reveals itself slowly with exposure to oxygen, a sure sign that it will age gracefully. The fruit notes still center on citrus, but here is more bitter tangerine pith than lemon curd. It has more heft and opulence, taking on a touch of creaminess while still remaining light on its feet and poised. This wine is clearly more at home in the quiet, wood-paneled refuge of the mountaintop ski lodge. It would pair perfectly with a chicken or river fish with a cream and mushroom sauce. Sausages would also be in play, either boudin blanc, fresh chicken mousse sausage dotted with garlic cloves; or diots, nutmeg-spiced pork sausages served with cabbage that also scream for Alpine wines.
The Apremont from Romain Chamiot issues from Jacquere vines that are closer to the village of Arbin, where Chamiot lives. Unlike Jean Masson, he is able to squeeze out some red wine as well, away from the colder terroir surrounding Mont Granier. The estate is farmed as organically as possible, and without pesticides, with strong mountain winds keeping the vineyards free from pests and disease. This cleanliness also allows the wine production with a minimum of added sulfur. The change in climate and farming methods result in a very fine and honest expression of Jacquere, producing a delicately sappy and piney Apremont bottling. Something unique in the terroir of Arbin must lend itself to this slightly resinous characteristic found in the wines, because the red Mondeuse produced by the Chamiot estate is likewise lively and concentrated in the mid-palate. This is always my bottle of choice when snacking on Alpine cheese and charcuterie. This low-tannin, slightly rustic grape reminds me of a lighter take on Cabernet Franc, with a peppery tinge supporting the precise and palate-cleansing body of the wine. The tannin is so fine it is nearly invisible, which complements and refreshes the richness of the Reblochon or Tomme de Savoie. Like the white wines of the region, the reds can also be used to great effect in cooking due to their low tannin and high fruit content. Dishes like the famous beef stews and red wine ragout from the region benefit from the addition of some local Mondeuse, as well as pair delightfully with it.
The final few Alpine wines I love when in skiing country are from the southernmost village in the Combe de Savoie, the picturesque and memorable Chignin. Here, in the southern-facing slopes of the Alpine foothills, Gilles and Christine Berlioz grow a smattering of local varietals for his aptly named Domaine de Partagé, or “the shared domain”. Eschewing any sort of mechanical or chemical treatment, the work in the vineyards is only by hand or donkey. They are certified organic and biodynamic, and produce some of the most delicious wines imaginable from the region. In Chignin, the local nickname for the Roussanne grape is “Bergeron”, and wines labeled “Chignin Bergeron” are among the most sought-after in the region. When tasting the Berlioz iteration from the “Les Filles” vineyard, it is easy to see why. The wines are not flashy, but rather deep-seated wines of meditation, with all the sense of river water rushing over smooth stones, mountain herbs and roots, and earthy complexity that only improves with age. This is clearly not a wine for a glou-glou lunch at the top of the mountain, or for enjoying with cheese and snacks. This is a wine for serious cuisine and techniques, perhaps for the famous poached pike quenelles of the region, or perhaps a duck confit tartiflette, one of the simpler but noble dishes of the region. A hearty dish of potatoes, lardons, and local Reblochon cheese with whatever protein is appropriate, tartiflette can be enjoyed with either color wine produced in the region. This was proven by a recent dinner where Berlioz’s Mondeuse proved to be a more than successful pairing. In stark contrast to the Mondeuse from the Chamiot estate, the Berlioz iteration is extraordinary- vibrant, floral, and with a depth of spicy red fruit and balanced tannin that belies its lightweight body. In a strange turn of cellar work, Berlioz ferments the Mondeuse solely in fiberglass eggs, which help stir the yeast as the wine ferments, adding texture to this most delicate interpretation of the grape. The biodynamic practices in the spotless vineyards, natural yeasts, no additives, and an honest winemaking help to elevate these exclusive and handcrafted wines to the best that Savoie has to offer.
Of course, we would be remiss to talk about the wonderful food and beverage options hailing from Savoie without at least mentioning the variety of Alpine liqueurs available to us. This is a standout category full of unique distillates that are unlike anything else— a distinctly Alpine vibe pervades these complex fireside sippers. The king of these and most recognizable is Chartreuse. The Carthusian monks have been producing their range of liqueurs in the foothills of the Alps since before the French Revolution— the very same revolution that forced the monks to relocate to the town of Tarragona in Spain, before finally constructing their third and most recent distillery in the Savoie town of Voirons. The major liqueurs produced by the monks are yellow and green Chartreuse, and the rare and exclusive long-aged Chartreuse VEP, also produced in either color. The yellow variant is smooth, sweet, slightly bitter, and tinged with notes of saffron, fennel, and mountain herbs and roots. The green is more serious and adds another layer of bitterness and an elevated alcohol percentage to the smooth, sweet body of the only liqueur to ever have a color named after it (Chartreuse green). If not straight out of a flask on the chairlift, the classic pairing for Chartreuse is chocolate in all its forms— torte, hot chocolate, or even the more modern brownie or flourless chocolate cake. The sweetness of Chartreuse fits is right at home in the flavor profile, while its bitter aspects complement the natural bitterness of dark chocolate. Truly a match made in heaven! The long-aged VEP versions are true to the flavor profiles of their counterparts, but lose the heft and roundness that the regular versions supply in spades. Intensity without weight, these ephemeral bottlings are only sporadically available and more than twice the price— but for those in the know, represent the best of the Alpine category. Also worth noting here are the traditional infusions of the genepy flowers found in the foothills of the Savoie villages. These can vary widely by locale; each family usually makes their own version. We are lucky to have two available in the store: The sleek and clean Genepy des Alpes from Dolin is made by the iconic vermouth producer in Chambery, the de facto capital of the Savoie region, and the slightly more weighty Alpe Genepy Herbetet. Concentrated, silky, and unctuous, these are less herbaceous and bitter than green Chartreuse, but have all of the complexity and savoriness of the Alpine herbs, and the added benefit of helping digestion after a heaping meal of fondue and tartiflette.
Whether you find yourself on the frosted peaks of Smuggler’s Notch or in the luxurious ski resorts that dot the Trois Vallees on the border of France and Switzerland, please remember that you are armed with the perfect culture of food and wine to combat the frigid temperatures, freezing gusts, and driving snow that make this season so hard to weather. Wrap yourself in a warm mantle of hearty food and beverage; it will only aid in your hibernation. Santé!
— James