2022 Olga Raffault

When the word grace is used to describe wine, Cabernet Franc is not usually the first grape varietal to come to mind. The storied Domaine Olga Raffault, through its wealth of prime vineyard sites, pristine farming, and precision in the cellar, has achieved this difficult goal. Current proprietors Sylvie and Eric de la Vigerie farm in the well-known district of Chinon. Their vines are nestled in the center of the Loire river valley near a small village named Savigny-en-Vernon. Here, the red wines are generally more rustic than refined. The bulk are sturdy, built to last for several decades, earthy and full of charm. The area has only produced a few examples of producers who have garnered acclaim and name recognition: the family of Bernard Baudry, the domaine of Charles Joguet, and the famous Olga Raffault domaine.

For five generations, the family has farmed the clay and chalk soils of Chinon, growing the majority of red vines organically (with some parcels still in conversion) along with a minuscule patch of Chenin Blanc. Work in the vineyard and harvest are all manual, fermentations are obtained by the yeast naturally occurring on the skin of the grape, and aging is done in either stainless steel or old, neutral oak. Sylvie’s touch in the cellar brings a lighter, more floral side of Cabernet Franc to the front, creating a more delicate tannic structure and grace from a grape that is not always regarded as such. This light touch ensures that the wines are almost always approachable in their youth, but the real news here is the longevity of these wines at some of the best prices in the region. These wines, especially in recent great vintages, are building blocks of any serious cellar.

Olga Raffault Chinon Blanc “Champs-Chenin” 2018 $42

This rare white Chinon issues from a mere hectare of vines planted to a limestone-rich monopole atop a hill next to the “Les Picasses” vineyard. The elevation and soil provide the bones for a dry, nervy Chenin that still maintains a wonderfully ripe fruit presence: green apple, honeysuckle, quince, and an underlying salty minerality make this a treat for the palate now, or an beautifully evolved wine five to ten years from the vintage date.

Olga Raffault Chinon Rouge “Domaine” 2019 $20

This blend of domaine and some purchased fruit is a great starting representation of everything that makes the Raffault estate great: violets and pepper spices perfume the nose of this currant-tinged wine. The palate reveals a distinct herbal nature: Russian sage and savory are both present to balance the full, deep body of the wine. Very satisfying and beautiful with roasted game or grilled lamb shoulder. Drinkable young but will improve over the next 5+ years.

Olga Raffault Chinon Rouge “Les Barnabes” 2018 $24

From a cooler site situated close to the banks of the Loire River issues this light, brisk Cabernet Franc that is suited more towards aperitif and charcuterie than its more serious cousins. The sandy alluvial soils that it grows on are reflected in the sleek body, fine tannins, and generously ripe black currant fruit that sits long on the palate. The wine is fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel to ensure that the wine is well-suited for early consumption or to last for ten or more years in the cellar.

Olga Raffault Rouge “Les Picasses” 2016 $30

The star vineyard of the estate, perched on hilly limestone soils near the eroded banks of the Vienne river. The vines are well over 50 years old on average, and like all other properties of the estate, are worked by hand.
Older vines and more complex terroir demand more aging, which is done here in old oak and chestnut barrels for around two years and then for at least two more in the bottle, ensuring that this wine is always released later than the others in the family. Dark, vinous fruits and pepper spices combine with meaty spices on the nose, which follow through on the palate. Although young, this wine offers incredible depth of flavor while displaying incredible restraint on the palate. The tannins are present but well integrated into the mouthfeel. Truly an incredible experience, it promises that the wine from the famous 2016 vintage will age for decades to come.